Unlike many off-the-rack alternatives, no expense is spared in the construction of Belladonna Eyes corsets. The materials used are of the highest quality, and suitable for the most discerning tight-lacer. Coutil has been the fabric of choice for corsetières down the ages, and for good reason. Its tight twill weave is unmatched for strength and durability. Likewise, strong, high quality steel bones span the length of the corset, holding the fabric taut. Spiral steels skim effortlessly over your curves without compromising support, while the back of the corset is firmly boned with flat steels which only flex in one direction. Similarly, the steel busk which forms the front opening of the corset helps to hold the posture erect.

The first stage in the design process is to decide upon the style of the corset, which will often dictate the placement of the seams. This will determine the position of the bones, and can be used to shape the body in different ways, both physically and visually. Once the design has been drawn up, I will begin to create the pattern. I do not draft patterns on paper, I choose instead to drape them on a dress stand using fabric. This method allows me to create the pattern in three dimensions, and does not rely on complex mathematics to ensure that the pattern pieces come together in the intended way. I like to think of it as "sculpting" the corset. In order to drape the pattern, I adjust and pad out the dress stand until it reflects perfectly all of your measurements. In some cases, I may have to make small alterations to the pattern, for example, adding an inch to the length, so if this is the case then these alterations are noted down. I will then begin to drape the pattern using calico or similar fabric, cutting strips big enough for each panel of the corset and pinning them together to form the pattern.

Once the calico pattern has been removed from the dress stand, any necessary alterations can be made. This includes the desired waist reduction. Normally, I advise that a corset should be made six inches smaller than your natural waist measurement. This may sound drastic, but it does include a two-inch gap in the lacing. If you are particularly slim you may wish to plan for a smaller gap, and likewise larger ladies may prefer the gap to be wider in order to remain in proportion. You may have been advised to purchase a corset three to five inches smaller than your natural waist, but as Belladonna Eyes corsets are made-to-measure, a greater waist reduction is easily possible. This will come as welcome news to any curvier ladies who find they are unable to achieve any waist reduction with a standard size corset due to the shape of their hips. If you have seen the pictures of my own corsets in the Gallery, you will know that I speak from experience!

After double checking all of the measurements, it is time to cut out the fabric. High quality coutil forms the basis of all my corsets, but if they are to be worn as outerwear (as is increasingly the case) then it is often desirable to cover the coutil with an attractive fashion fabric. Many of my designs combine different fashion fabrics in quirky juxtaposition, bringing new life to a traditional garment. Alternatively you may opt for a plain fabric for an understated but classy finish. White cotton for underwear and black satin for eveningwear are two popular choices.

The next few stages in the construction are crucial to the durability of the finished garment. As the corset will be put under a great amount of stress, all the seams are pressed to one side and top stitched for strength (similarly to the way that jeans are made.) The channels for the bones are also made in this way. Next, a strong petersham waist tape is sewn in, to further reinforce the waistline of the corset. This will be the area under the greatest tension, and it is vital that this part of the corset has no give whatsoever.